Portand sounds good

[Gob]

Mark Chipperfield admires a city with craft beer, superior coffee and a resolution to 'keep it weird'.

In the 1940s, Portland journalist Dick Fagan began writing a tongue-in-cheek column about leprechauns living on the median strip opposite his office. This piece of whimsy so fascinated his readers that they helped Fagan transform the space - the size of a planter box - into a dinky park with trees, flowers, a swimming pool and miniature Ferris wheel.

Mill Ends Park is still going strong amid the exhaust fumes on the SW Naito Parkway. Fagan's "leprechaun colony" was officially declared a park by the council in 1976 and is tended by a municipal keeper. Recognised as the world's smallest park, Mill Ends is treated as a sacred site by Portlanders.

Going off-piste is a tradition in Portland, a city whose unofficial motto is "Keep it Weird". Behind the neo-classical facades and prim civic gardens, Portland is happy to take a walk on the wild side. One evening a party of men dressed in outlandish wigs, pirate hats and cocktail dresses boards my carriage on the light rail. They strike a pose but remain silent, like mannequins. "Welcome to the party," the conductor says.

Apart from being the craft-beer and coffee-roasting capital of the US, Portland (population: 570,000) has a dazzling number of strip joints, including the world's first club staffed entirely by vegans and serving vegan cuisine. "The only meat we have is on the stage," promises the owner, Johnny Diabalo.

Celebrated for its loopy left-wing politics and progressive town planning - the city has efficient public transport, 521 kilometres of bike lanes and solar-powered rubbish bins - Portland is also keeping it weird on the gastronomic front, with restaurants, coffee shops and brew pubs that are the envy of the country; even the food carts get reviewed in The New York Times.

Boisterous and defiantly alternative, Portland is perhaps the most intriguing - and certainly the tastiest - city in the US.

7.30am

Apart from craft beer, gourmet food carts and thriving providores, Portland's biggest claim to culinary fame is its excellent roasted coffee. Stumptown Coffee Roasters is one of the city's original micro-roasters and a hallowed name among local caffeine nuts. From this single outlet in downtown, the company has grown into an empire, with branches in Seattle and New York. The downtown cafe is a large, industrial-style space with plenty of seating, a well-stocked magazine rack and an espresso production line.

The double-shot latte, at $US2.40 ($2.30), is deliciously smooth and strong.

Stumptown Coffee Roasters, 128 SW 3rd Avenue. Open 6am-7pm weekdays and 7am-7pm weekends; see stumptowncoffee.com.

8.10am

Given Portland's propensity for weird behaviour, nibbling on a voodoo-shaped doughnut doll ($US1.95) at Voodoo Doughnut should come as no great surprise. The signature creation of this madcap emporium is filled with raspberry jam and dipped in chocolate, with a pretzel stake in its heart. Other hot sellers include Bacon Maple Bar (with real bacon), Cock-N-Balls and, not surprisingly, Gay Bar ("full of luscious cream and all the colours of the rainbow").

Vegan doughnuts are available.

Voodoo Doughnut, 26 SW 3rd Avenue. Open daily, cash only; see voodoodoughnut.com.

9am

Time to burn some calories. The Waterfront Loop is a three-kilometre circular route linking the Hawthorne and Steel bridges, suitable for walkers and cyclists alike, with elevated views of the Willamette River.

To learn something of the city's colourful history and architectural legacy, book a Best of Portland walking tour.

Guides are knowledgeable, funny and armed with all sorts of interesting facts about Stumptown (a reference to the tree stumps left when the city was cleared).

The tour covers downtown, the theatre district and waterfront areas.

Portland Walking Tours depart 10am and 2pm daily; in winter, only at 10am on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays. Tickets $US19 adults, $US5 children 5-10; see portlandwalkingtours.com.

11.30am

Jump on the free MAX light rail to Pioneer Courthouse Square, the city's outdoor entertainment hub. Known as Portland's "living room", it hosts 300 scheduled events every year - from Bollywood dance shows to farmers' markets and boisterous gay and lesbian protests. It's also handy for shopping - Nordstrom and Macy's department stores are nearby.

Pioneer Courthouse Square, 701 SW 6th Avenue; see pioneercourthousesquare.org. A visitor information centre is at the northern end of the square and opens daily.

12.30pm

For lunch, follow the office workers to the nearest food cart. Some of the best offerings are on SW Alder Street, between 9th and 11th avenues, within a short stroll of Pioneer Courthouse Square.

The culinary choice here is astonishing (everything from Vietnamese to Venezuelan) and the food is cheap, fresh and authentic. Nong's Khao Man Gai has been reviewed internationally - try Nong's famous chicken and rice ($US6).

Finding somewhere to eat your food can be tricky, so perhaps walk back to the square.

Food Carts Portland runs guided walking tours of the city's food cart culture daily at noon. Tickets $US25. To book online see foodcartsportland.com.

2.15pm

Portland is known for its civic parks and rose gardens. One of the most accessible is the Lan Su Chinese Garden (239 NW Everett Street), celebrating Portland's sister-city relationship with Suzhou in China and occupying an entire block (open daily, entry $US8.50 adult, $US6.50 child).

For something a little more rural, venture out to the Portland Japanese Garden (611 SW Kingston Avenue), which is in the city's west hills. These immaculate gardens comprise five precincts (open daily, entry $US9.50 adult, $US6.75 child). Nearby is the International Rose Test Garden. Dating to 1917, the garden has a special significance in the "City of Roses", with 10,000 plantings and more than 500 varieties.

International Rose Test Garden, 850 SW Rose Garden Way. Open daily 7.30am-9pm, free entry. Ride the MAX to Washington Park Station, then take Bus 63 to the rose garden; rosegardenstore.org.

4.45pm

Apart for excelling at coffee, craft beer, cycling, street protests and strip joints, Portland happens to house one of the world's biggest independent book emporiums. Powell's City of Books stocks more than 1 million new, used and rare titles.

So vast is this bookshop, visitors need a map (or an app) to negotiate the maze of shelves. Every field of human interest is covered - from Native American studies to hiking, birds and erotica. With no sales tax, the prices here are equally attractive.

Allow a couple of hours to do the place justice - there's an in-house coffee shop for the footsore.

Powell's City of Books, 1005 W Burnside. Open daily 9am-11pm; see powells.com.

6pm

Time for a sundowner? Departure Lounge is on the 15th floor of the sumptuous Nines Hotel in central Portland and has a bird's-eye view of the city and the Willamette River.

On a sunny afternoon, bag a table on the outdoor terrace. The bar is a popular hangout for Portland's young movers and shakers. The Asian finger food is pricey but excellent; ditto the drinks list. Try the calamari tempura with seaweed salad ($US16) and a pint of locally brewed Terminal Gravity IPA ($US6), an appropriate choice given your lofty surrounds.

Departure Restaurant + Lounge, 525 SW Morrison. Open Mon-Sat; starwoodhotels.com.

8.30pm

Anyone who has ever complained about American food will meet their culinary Waterloo at Clyde Common, one of Portland's edgier restaurants. Don't expect white linen and subtle muzak - this is edgy, bold, no-nonsense cuisine served in a warehouse with a noisy open kitchen. Try the marinated tomatoes starter ($US10), then the pork belly, shell beans, cipollini onions, pesto and cherry tomatoes (US$21).

It has an excellent wine list and a good selection of craft beer.

Clyde Common, 1014 Southwest Stark Street, Open weekdays for lunch and dinner, weekends for dinner only; see clydecommon.com.

10.15pm

Walk a couple of blocks north to the Pearl district, known for its private art galleries, boutique breweries and live-music venues. Jimmy Mak's jazz club is another Portland institution.

Expect a cavernous space, chilled-out vibe and an eclectic range of local and visiting jazz artists. There's a good selection of well-priced cocktails, draft beers and wines by the glass.

Jimmy Mak's, 221 NW 10th Avenue. Open Mon-Sat. Music begins at 8pm, cover charge $US10; see jimmymaks.com.

Mark Chipperfield travelled courtesy of Travel Portland and Hotel Modera.

FAST FACTS

Getting there

Qantas has a fare to Portland from Sydney and Melbourne for about $1640 low-season return, including tax. Fly to Los Angeles (about 14hr), then Alaskan Airlines to Portland (2hr 25min). Australians must apply for travel authorisation before departure at https://esta.cbp.dhs.gov.

Staying there

Hotel Modera is walking distance to the downtown area. Modern, funky and welcoming, this is the new face of Portland, with a cool bistro and pop art on the wall. Guest rooms are spacious and well equipped. Rooms cost from $US139 ($135) a night. At 515 SW Clay Avenue; see hotelmodera.com.

Hotel de Luxe is a glamorous little hotel, away from the bustle of downtown. Rooms are on the smallish side but immaculately furnished. The hotel is inspired by the Hollywood stars of yesteryear, with chandeliers and moody photographs. Rooms cost from $US139 a night. At 729 SW 15th Avenue; see hoteldeluxeportland.com.

Touring there

Less than an hour's drive from Portland is Hood River on the mighty Columbia River. The region is a magnet for watersports enthusiasts, mountain bikers, craft-beer lovers and snow skiers — it has the only year-round ski run in the US. Come for the day or stay overnight at the magnificent pre-war Colombia Gorge Hotel. See hoodriver.org.

Read more: http://www.smh.com.au/travel/24-hours-i ... z1eByftAxC

[dales]

Too many gray, overcast days.

[Andrew D]

But isn't public funding -- "tended by a municipal keeper" -- for a park devoted to leprechauns an unconstitutional governmental endorsement of religion (paganism)?

Look at what happened to Desert Christ Park.

[Guinevere]

Portland is a lovely city. I was very close to moving their with a boyfriend after law school, but it didn't work out. The Rose Test Garden is amazing, as is Powells books, the lovely Art museum, and the plethora of good places to find coffee and meals. Drives over the mountains to the coast, down to Mount Hood, and out along the Columbia River were also fabulous.

[Rick]

When I was in the Navy one of my friends was from Portland.

His description was much different than yers Guin...

[Guinevere]

Understanding that my Viking is a former Naval officer and has some pretty wild stories to tell, I'm not surprised Keld. His description of *many* places is different than mine

[Sean]

But isn't public funding -- "tended by a municipal keeper" -- for a park devoted to leprechauns an unconstitutional governmental endorsement of religion (paganism)?

Look at what happened to Desert Christ Park.

Except that the leprechaun is no more a religious symbol than Bigfoot...

[Rick]

The wee folk, as Andrew points out, owe their origins to Paganism.

Big foot on the other hand to Polaroid...

[Liberty1]

If you want weird with great weather, try Santa Fe

[loCAtek]

That's the peyote talkin', taken for religious reasons a-course

[Sean]

The wee folk, as Andrew points out, owe their origins to Paganism.

Big foot on the other hand to Polaroid...

Folklore and Paganism are not the same thing though Keld...

The closest that leprechaun get to Paganism is that one of the legends of their origin states that they were descended from the Tuatha De Danann... one of the mythical early races of people to inhabit Ireland whose name translates (albeit loosely) as "People of the Goddess Danu". The leprechaun has NEVER been held as a religious symbol in Ireland.

[loCAtek]

Well, if Fairy Tales aren't religions, then Religions aren't fairy tales.

[dales]

If you want weird with great weather, try Santa Fe

Too hot and not near the coast.

[rubato]

If you want weird with great weather, try Santa Fe

Too hot and not near the coast.

Ok, not near a coast is accurate but too whut?

http://www.weather.com/weather/wxclimat ... h/USNM0292

Barely gets into the 80s!

yrs,
rubato

[Guinevere]

Santa Fe is gorgeous and definitely not too hot. In fact, I think it has pretty perfect weather. If I ever leave the east coast and the ocean, that's where I'm headed.

[Liberty1]

Not near the coast?

Seriously, when was the last time you went to the beach? and when was the last time you lived somewhere that you could ski in the morning and play golf in the afternoon.



Everyone else, shhhhh, don't tell him about our near perfect weather, we've got enough californian tranplants already.

[dales]

In CA it is possible to go to the beach and then later drive to the mountains to ski.

I need to be near the coast as I enjoy the PACIFIC OCEAN in all her splendor as often as possible.

Been to NM and apart from the "four corners area", it's just "not me".

TEHO

[Liberty1]

The four corners area is kinda boring to me. Shiprock and a few other things are pretty cool. But the different mountain ranges all over the state are incredible and you can get alone, you can't do that in Cali.

I've been in the Gila NF for 2 weeks before and literally not seen another human.

You coul;dn't pay me enough to live in califonia, I have to go there enough for business already.

[rubato]

Santa Fe is beautiful. Great arts scene, nice people, stunning landscape. But I'm with dales, I can see the Pacific Ocean from my dining room table and Santa Fe is far too limited, and too narrow, for all its benefits.

We can be in Yosemite in 4 hours. And we were this weekend! We spent two nights at the Ahwahnee for my wife's birthday.

And Santa Cruz has better weather than Santa Fe. You can have solitude here in more places than you can in NM.

yrs,
rubato

[loCAtek]

Um no, the Land of Enchantment stretches more than your physical boundaries...

I remember thinking the 'Close Encounters' poster had stolen that image from Route 66 through NewMex.