EGR Vacuum Modulator

Cars, Bikes, Airplanes, "bicycles" spelled correctly, Tools and Toys.
MGMcAnick
Posts: 1342
Joined: Mon Sep 28, 2015 10:01 pm
Location: 12 NM from ICT @ 010º

Re: EGR Vacuum Modulator

Post by MGMcAnick »

Well, that said, I experienced another blow out today. Luckily it was not on my car, but I was quite nearby. The car, an '85 Pontiac Firebird, was parked outside of my shop. I was inside cutting into the old primary fuel filter that I had just replaced on the diesel motor home I had the tire issue with in OKC last week. I don't think the filter had ever been replaced in 62K miles. Really nasty inside. No wonder it didn't run well over 50. That's another story. I heard a loud bang. When I looked out the garage door, the left front corner of the Firebird was sitting way lower than the other three. There was a hole in the sidewall, and a section of the tread was separated from the tire. Reading the date code on the sidewall showed that the tire was made in the 38th week of 2004. Yes, a 13 year old tire with deep tread, and little sidewall cracking. I advised the owner that it is time for a new set.
A friend of Doc's, one of only two B-29 bombers still flying.

User avatar
BoSoxGal
Posts: 18297
Joined: Tue Apr 06, 2010 10:36 pm
Location: The Heart of Red Sox Nation

Re: EGR Vacuum Modulator

Post by BoSoxGal »

This is the article I read that discussed aging of tires before mounting, etc.
How Old — and Dangerous — Are Your Tires?

Determining the Age of a Tire
11/18/2011 (updated 07/15/2014) - By Ronald Montoya, Consumer Advice Associate

In February 2008, the owner of a 1998 Ford Explorer in Georgia needed a new tire for his SUV and ended up buying a used one. When he was driving two weeks later, the tread suddenly separated from the tire. The Explorer went out of control and hit a motorcycle, killing its rider. An analysis of the used tire revealed that it was nearly 10 years old.


More recently, an investigation into the cause of the accident that killed the actor Paul Walker revealed that the Porsche Carrera GT in which he was riding had nine-year-old tires. The California Highway Patrol noted that the tires' age might have compromised their drivability and handling characteristics, according to the Los Angeles Times.

These incidents illustrate not only the potential danger of buying used tires but also the perils of driving on aging tires — including those that have never spent a day on the road.

For years, people have relied on a tire's tread depth to determine its condition. But the rubber compounds in a tire deteriorate with time, regardless of the condition of the tread. An old tire poses a safety hazard.

For some people, old tires might never be an issue. If you drive a typical number of miles, somewhere around 12,000-15,000 miles annually, a tire's tread will wear out in three to four years, long before the rubber compound does. But if you only drive 6,000 miles a year, or have a car that you only drive on weekends, aging tires could be an issue. The age warning also applies to spare tires and "new" tires that have never been used but are old.

What Happens to a Tire as It Ages?
Sean Kane, president of Safety Research & Strategies, Inc., compares an aging tire to an old rubber band. "If you take a rubber band that's been sitting around a long time and stretch it, you will start to see cracks in the rubber," says Kane, whose organization is involved in research, analysis and advocacy on safety matters for the public and clients including attorneys, engineering firms, supplier companies, media and government.

That's essentially what happens to a tire that's put on a vehicle and driven. Cracks in the rubber begin to develop over time. They may appear on the surface and inside the tire as well. This cracking can eventually cause the steel belts in the tread to separate from the rest of the tire. An animation on the Safety Research & Strategies Web site shows how this happens. Improper maintenance and heat accelerate the process.

Every tire that's on the road long enough will succumb to age. Tires that are rated for higher mileage have "anti-ozinant" chemical compounds built into the rubber that will slow the aging process, but nothing stops the effects of time on rubber, says Doug Gervin, Michelin's director of product marketing for passenger cars and light trucks.

How Long Does a Tire Last?
Carmakers, tire makers and rubber manufacturers differ in their opinions about the lifespan of a tire. The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) has no specific guidelines on tire aging and defers to the recommendations of carmakers and tire manufacturers. Carmakers such as Nissan and Mercedes-Benz tell consumers to replace tires six years after their production date, regardless of tread life. Tire manufacturers such as Continental and Michelin say a tire can last up to 10 years, provided you get annual tire inspections after the fifth year.

The Rubber Manufacturers Association says there is no way to put a date on when a tire "expires," because such factors as heat, storage and conditions of use can dramatically reduce the life of a tire. Here's more on each of these factors.

Heat: NHTSA research has found that tires age more quickly in warmer climates. NHTSA also found that environmental conditions like exposure to sunlight and coastal climates can hasten the aging process. People who live in warm weather and coastal states should keep this in mind when deciding whether they should retire a tire.

Storage: This applies to spare tires and tires that are sitting in a garage or shop. Consider how a spare tire lives its life. If you own a truck, the spare may be mounted underneath the vehicle, exposed to dirt and the elements.

If your spare is in the trunk, it's as if it is "baking in a miniature oven," says Dan Zielinski, senior vice president of public affairs for the Rubber Manufacturers Association. Most often, the spare never sees the light of day. But if the tire has been inflated and mounted on a wheel, it is technically "in service," even if it's never been used, Gervin says.

A tire that has not been mounted and is just sitting in a tire shop or your garage will age more slowly than one that has been put into service on a car. But it ages nonetheless.

Conditions of use: This refers to how the tire is treated. Is it properly inflated? Has it hit the curb too many times? Has it ever been repaired for a puncture? Tires on a car that's only driven on the weekends will have a different aging pattern than those on a car that's driven daily on the highway. All these factors contribute to how quickly or slowly a tire wears out.

Proper maintenance is the best thing a person can do to ensure a long tire life. Gervin recommends that you maintain proper air pressure in tires, have them rotated regularly and have them routinely inspected.

How To Determine the Age of a Tire
The sidewall of a tire is full of numbers and letters. They all mean something, but deciphering them can be a challenge. This Edmunds article about reading a tire's sidewall goes into greater detail, but for the purposes of determining the age of a tire, you'll just need to know its U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT) number.

Tires made after 2000 have a four-digit DOT code. The first two numbers represent the week in which the tire was made. The second two represent the year. A tire with a DOT code of 1109 was made in the 11th week of 2009. Tires with a three-digit code were made prior to 2000 and are trickier to decode. The first two digits still tell you the week, but the third digit tells you the year in the decade that it was created. The hard part is knowing what decade that was. Some tires made in the 1990s (but not all) have a triangle after the DOT code, denoting that decade. But for tires without that, a code of "328" could be from the 32nd week of 1988 — or 1978.

Clearly, these DOT numbers weren't designed with the consumer in mind. They were originally put on tires to make it easier for NHTSA to recall tires and keep track of their manufacturing date.

To make matters worse, you might not always find the DOT number on the outer side of the tire. Because of the way a tire is made, it is actually safer for the technician operating the mold to imprint information on the inner side of the tire, so some manufacturers will opt to put the number there. It is still possible to check the DOT code, but you might have to jack the car up to see it. Keep the visibility of the DOT number in mind the next time you are at a tire shop and the installer asks if you want the tires to be mounted with the raised lettering facing in.

That potential inconvenience is going away, however. NHTSA says that the sidewall information about the tire's date of manufacture, size and other pertinent data is now required to be on both sides of the tire for easier reading.

After checking out a tire's birth date, give the rubber a visual inspection. Some of the best advice on such an inspection comes from the British Tyre Manufacturers' Association. It recommends that consumers check tires regularly for any sign of aging, such as tread distortion or large or small hairline cracks in the sidewall. Vibrations or a change in the dynamic properties of the tire could also be an indicator of aging problems, the association says. It recommends replacing the tire immediately if such symptoms appear.

Don't Buy Used
Tires are expensive, especially when you factor in the price of mounting and balancing. That's why used tires become more attractive to consumers who are strapped for cash. But the purchase of used tires is very much a buyer-beware situation, Zielinski says. "Even a one-year-old tire can be dangerous if it was poorly maintained," he says.

When a consumer buys a used tire, he has no idea how well it was maintained or the conditions in which it has been used. The previous owner might have driven it with low pressure. It could have hit curbs repeatedly. It could have been patched for a nail. Further, it's a dated product.

"You wouldn't want a used tire for the same reason that you wouldn't buy a 10-year-old computer," Zielinski says. "You are denying yourself the advancements in tire technology over the past few years."

Make Sure You're Getting a "Fresh" Tire
Just because a tire is unused doesn't mean it's new. In a number of instances, consumers have purchased "new" tires at retail stores only to find out later that they were manufactured years earlier. In addition to having a shorter life on the road, a tire that's supposedly new but is actually old may be past its warranty period.

If you buy tires and soon after discover that they're actually a few years old, you have the right to request newer ones, Zielinski says. Any reputable store should be willing to make amends. "It is fair for a consumer to expect that 'new' is not several years old," he says.

Letting Go
Getting rid of an unused spare or a tire with good-looking tread may be the hardest thing for a thrifty consumer to do. "Nobody's going to take a tire that looks like it's never been used and throw it out," Kane says. But if it's old, that's exactly what the owner should do.

Although Kane has lobbied NHTSA to enact regulations on tire aging, nothing is currently on the books. A NHTSA spokesman says the organization is "continuing to conduct research into the effects of tire aging, and what actions consumers can do to safely monitor their tires when they are on their vehicles."

It's too bad that tires don't have a "sell by" date, like cartons of milk. Since there's no consensus from government or industry sources, we'll just say that if your tire has plenty of tread left but is nearing the five-year mark, it's time to get it inspected for signs of aging.

Of all your vehicle's components, tires have the greatest effect on the way it handles and brakes. So if the tire store recommends new tires at your five-year check-up, spend the money and don't put it off. Your life could depend on it.
For me, it is far better to grasp the Universe as it really is than to persist in delusion, however satisfying and reassuring.
~ Carl Sagan

ex-khobar Andy
Posts: 5418
Joined: Sat Dec 19, 2015 4:16 am
Location: Louisville KY as of July 2018

Re: EGR Vacuum Modulator

Post by ex-khobar Andy »

I had never given this any thought until this thread. My wife's Mini is Feb 2008 according to the door; tires are 2811 which makes them July of 2011 so over six years old. For various male chauvinist pig reasons we more often than not, especially for longer trips, take my car; so she probably does less than 2000 miles per year. Milage on the car (we did not get it new) is still less than 50,000. So these tires might have 10K or so on them in those six years. They look fine and of course have plenty of tread. Should I just chuck them - in other words is there some sort of test beyond tread depth to determine if the tire is still OK?

User avatar
RayThom
Posts: 8604
Joined: Wed Mar 14, 2012 4:38 pm
Location: Longwood Gardens PA 19348

EGR Vacuum Modulator

Post by RayThom »

From Hemmings Motor News: Open Diff: When it comes to tires, how old is too old?

https://www.hemmings.com/blog/2016/07/0 ... s-too-old/
Image
“In a world whose absurdity appears to be so impenetrable, we simply must reach a greater degree of understanding among us, a greater sincerity.” 

Jarlaxle
Posts: 5370
Joined: Sun Apr 25, 2010 4:21 am
Location: New England

Re: EGR Vacuum Modulator

Post by Jarlaxle »

Call me quite skeptical, when tire companies are telling me that I need to buy tires because mine hit some magic age. The last set of CHP Eagles on my Caddy were more than 10 years old...ran them about 35,000 miles (they wore out) with no trouble, including some sustained high-speed running.

User avatar
BoSoxGal
Posts: 18297
Joined: Tue Apr 06, 2010 10:36 pm
Location: The Heart of Red Sox Nation

Re: EGR Vacuum Modulator

Post by BoSoxGal »

It’s not just the tire companies, in other countries it is industry watchdog groups and there are actually age-limiting regulations. Tire companies have been sued quite a lot over faulty tires, and yes, they have a financial incentive beyond that but, really, tires is one place not to cut corners.

I drive 70-80mph on 495 and 195 just keeping up with traffic and there are lots of stupid and aggressive drivers, so I want good tires and good brakes. They both got tested yesterday when a negligent driver entered the highway at @ 25mph and did not accelerate, causing me and a few other cars to have to go from 65 to 25mph in a very, very short distance - as in, I was fully expecting to get into my first bad car wreck. Luckily, my 5.75 year old tires (I got underneath and checked, they were made in March 2012 and I bought them in July of the same year) and almost 10 year old brakes (!) performed excellently, saving my ass.

I’ve routinely had my brakes checked over the past several years and routinely been told they are in great shape still; my mechanic boyfriend in Montana did them for me last in 2008 and insisted I buy ceramic pads; they’ve been squeaky a few times and I’ve had them checked and was told it was just Montana dust. They still work great as proven yesterday, but I think that is because a) I didn’t put a lot of miles on the car living in Montana, and b) my dad & mom taught me to use my brakes sparingly, I anticipate stops or slowdowns well in advance and coast to reduce speed, using the brakes only at the very end - except in very rare situations like the asshat yesterday who didn’t know how to merge. I’ve ridden with people who ride their brakes and it drives me nuts, there’s just no need.
For me, it is far better to grasp the Universe as it really is than to persist in delusion, however satisfying and reassuring.
~ Carl Sagan

Jarlaxle
Posts: 5370
Joined: Sun Apr 25, 2010 4:21 am
Location: New England

Re: EGR Vacuum Modulator

Post by Jarlaxle »

I have seen 10-year-old tires that passed full testing (including but not limited to X-rays) for recapping with no trouble. I also run 75MPH, though I have gone faster...my father in law and I both did about 100 miles at triple-digit speeds a few years ago. My Caddy was on its 10+ year old CHP Eagles, his Trans Am on ~8 year old Cooper Cobras. Note that NOBODY has any real age limit for tires. Not the DOT, not even the FAA. Yes, the DOT is fine with 15-year-old steer tires on a school bus or a propane tanker. Yes, the FAA is fine with 10-year-old tires (that have been capped 3-4 times) on a 747!

One trailer at work is an elderly 28' pup still running lock-ring wheels (aka, "widowmakers") and tube tires...the current tires (10.00-20 bias ply, made by Union and New Pride) are from 1997, 1999, and 2008. It passed a DOT inspection with no problem recently.

User avatar
BoSoxGal
Posts: 18297
Joined: Tue Apr 06, 2010 10:36 pm
Location: The Heart of Red Sox Nation

Re: EGR Vacuum Modulator

Post by BoSoxGal »

I do understand what the US situation is, but I’m also aware that in general, many US government agencies are more corporate friendly than consumer protective - whether from bias or underfunding, it’s just been borne out over and over.

I have far more confidence in relying on the standards of far more consumer protective nations like the UK, Germany, etc. It’s a matter of personal choice obviously, but I’ll just feel more comfortable replacing these tires in another year, before next winter - or possibly sooner if they don’t handle well this winter. I put reasonably good Coopers on last time but not their best, because I was driving in much more favorable weather conditions - Montana’s state highways and interstates are rarely ever icy, at least where I was living, and there is almost never enough water to face hydroplaning, which there is on my current commute on a regular basis. So I want to invest in some very good all weathers.
For me, it is far better to grasp the Universe as it really is than to persist in delusion, however satisfying and reassuring.
~ Carl Sagan

User avatar
Crackpot
Posts: 11264
Joined: Sat Apr 10, 2010 2:59 am
Location: Michigan

Re: EGR Vacuum Modulator

Post by Crackpot »

My experience with different government regulations is that they are different. Some things are better some are worse. No country has a corner on the "best" rules and regulations. As far as crash regulatons go I find the US regulations to be marginally better than Europe in that thier tests more accurately reflect real world crash conditions still there is room for improvement.
Okay... There's all kinds of things wrong with what you just said.

Jarlaxle
Posts: 5370
Joined: Sun Apr 25, 2010 4:21 am
Location: New England

Re: EGR Vacuum Modulator

Post by Jarlaxle »

BoSoxGal wrote:I do understand what the US situation is, but I’m also aware that in general, many US government agencies are more corporate friendly than consumer protective - whether from bias or underfunding, it’s just been borne out over and over.

I have far more confidence in relying on the standards of far more consumer protective nations like the UK, Germany, etc. It’s a matter of personal choice obviously, but I’ll just feel more comfortable replacing these tires in another year, before next winter - or possibly sooner if they don’t handle well this winter. I put reasonably good Coopers on last time but not their best, because I was driving in much more favorable weather conditions - Montana’s state highways and interstates are rarely ever icy, at least where I was living, and there is almost never enough water to face hydroplaning, which there is on my current commute on a regular basis. So I want to invest in some very good all weathers.
If you are that concerned about it, what about a set of winter tires? Tire Rack has Yokohama Iceguards on special...about $400 shipped for a set of four (215/70R15), and General Altimax Arctic for about $30 more. Tires-Easy has the Cooper Weather-Master WSC on sale, for $366/set, and the Sigma Winter Claw (made by Cooper) for $348/set.

User avatar
BoSoxGal
Posts: 18297
Joined: Tue Apr 06, 2010 10:36 pm
Location: The Heart of Red Sox Nation

Re: EGR Vacuum Modulator

Post by BoSoxGal »

As I said earlier upthread, I have no space to store a set of tires. I’ve always run all weathers and never had a problem.
For me, it is far better to grasp the Universe as it really is than to persist in delusion, however satisfying and reassuring.
~ Carl Sagan

Jarlaxle
Posts: 5370
Joined: Sun Apr 25, 2010 4:21 am
Location: New England

Re: EGR Vacuum Modulator

Post by Jarlaxle »

Toyo Celsius, maybe?

I need to replace my snow tires...eek, this will not be cheap. (Size 235/55R17)

User avatar
BoSoxGal
Posts: 18297
Joined: Tue Apr 06, 2010 10:36 pm
Location: The Heart of Red Sox Nation

Re: EGR Vacuum Modulator

Post by BoSoxGal »

Last Saturday on my way home from work my muffler assembly broke in two, then fell off entirely. It had been looking ragged for a while and I suggested replacing it to my mechanic back in October and he said I should get the full use of it before I replaced it. I can assert that I absolutely used it to its full potential! :lol:

Mechanic said I needed the intermediate pipe replaced too, so I ordered a Walker Quiet Flow SS muffler and a Walker resonator and he installed those, along with the VSV I’ve been too busy for weeks to have him install (no more check engine light!), and finally, new plugs and wires. Got an oil change, too. Drive to work today was like when Reva was brand new - to me, at least. She’s still bruised and bumped up and her paint job is a mess of failing clear coat - but she’s got a heart of gold and I love her! 180k miles and every expectation of reaching 300k+!

Heck I might even paint her next summer . . .


One query: even my new very fair priced and honest mechanic put a ‘3 months/3000 miles’ sticker on for the next oil change; I went 10k this last time because she has high mileage full synthetic oil. I’ve read numerous places, including here I think, that synthetic is good for 10k. I just bought a case of genuine Toyota filters so that’s what she got this time plus full synthetic high mileage. Any reason she can’t go 10k between changes?

Recently on the Toyota forums I read a post from a guy who didn’t change the oil in his RAV for over 100k miles! And it was fine . . .
For me, it is far better to grasp the Universe as it really is than to persist in delusion, however satisfying and reassuring.
~ Carl Sagan

User avatar
Joe Guy
Posts: 13923
Joined: Fri Apr 09, 2010 2:40 pm
Location: Redweird City, California

Re: EGR Vacuum Modulator

Post by Joe Guy »

Most vehicle maintenance manuals say you should change your oil every 6000 or some other designated number OR six months - whichever comes first. That's what I do. Whatever you do, it's always a good idea to check your oil level regularly.

User avatar
datsunaholic
Posts: 1790
Joined: Sun Dec 13, 2015 12:53 am
Location: The Wet Coast

Re: EGR Vacuum Modulator

Post by datsunaholic »

I wouldn't do 10K without an oil analysis. But that all depends on the kind of miles. It's all about the number of heat cycles.
Death is Nature's way of telling you to slow down.

User avatar
RayThom
Posts: 8604
Joined: Wed Mar 14, 2012 4:38 pm
Location: Longwood Gardens PA 19348

EGR Vacuum Modulator

Post by RayThom »

You can run a conventional oil up to 7500 miles, you should be able to run a synthetic oil over 10000 miles. Again, synthetic oil is likely to last far longer than what you've been led to believe. eg.The Jaguar manual states full synthetic oil is good for 15,000 miles.

Check the dipstick every few months for color and odor and measurement. Oh, and remove the oil change sticker they put on your windshield. Mechanics use this as a way to coax you into a change even if it's not necessary.
Image
“In a world whose absurdity appears to be so impenetrable, we simply must reach a greater degree of understanding among us, a greater sincerity.” 

Jarlaxle
Posts: 5370
Joined: Sun Apr 25, 2010 4:21 am
Location: New England

Re: EGR Vacuum Modulator

Post by Jarlaxle »

BoSoxGal wrote:Last Saturday on my way home from work my muffler assembly broke in two, then fell off entirely. It had been looking ragged for a while and I suggested replacing it to my mechanic back in October and he said I should get the full use of it before I replaced it. I can assert that I absolutely used it to its full potential! :lol:

Mechanic said I needed the intermediate pipe replaced too, so I ordered a Walker Quiet Flow SS muffler and a Walker resonator and he installed those, along with the VSV I’ve been too busy for weeks to have him install (no more check engine light!), and finally, new plugs and wires. Got an oil change, too. Drive to work today was like when Reva was brand new - to me, at least. She’s still bruised and bumped up and her paint job is a mess of failing clear coat - but she’s got a heart of gold and I love her! 180k miles and every expectation of reaching 300k+!

Heck I might even paint her next summer . . .


One query: even my new very fair priced and honest mechanic put a ‘3 months/3000 miles’ sticker on for the next oil change; I went 10k this last time because she has high mileage full synthetic oil. I’ve read numerous places, including here I think, that synthetic is good for 10k. I just bought a case of genuine Toyota filters so that’s what she got this time plus full synthetic high mileage. Any reason she can’t go 10k between changes?

Recently on the Toyota forums I read a post from a guy who didn’t change the oil in his RAV for over 100k miles! And it was fine . . .
Oil is oil. Follow the manual with whatever 5w-30 you can get the cheapest. If you're concerned, go 7500 on it and send a sample to Blackstone Labs. I went 7500 in my Jeep (which is hard on oil) and the analysis came back fine.

User avatar
BoSoxGal
Posts: 18297
Joined: Tue Apr 06, 2010 10:36 pm
Location: The Heart of Red Sox Nation

Re: EGR Vacuum Modulator

Post by BoSoxGal »

My mechanic said the oil looked fine when he did this last change. I’m ashamed to say I never checked it once between changes - I used to be so good about car maintenance, every Saturday during Click & Clack I would take the car for gas, air pressure check/fill, I’d do an oil check, and I’d clean the interior and exterior as needed. That was a long time ago, before workaholism set in.

I’ll make a point to check every week or so again; the miles are nearly all highway miles, an hour of travel at a time, so I assume that’s a bit easier on the engine oil.

It’s so weird after nearly a year to have no check engine light on. :lol:
For me, it is far better to grasp the Universe as it really is than to persist in delusion, however satisfying and reassuring.
~ Carl Sagan

User avatar
Econoline
Posts: 9555
Joined: Sun Apr 18, 2010 6:25 pm
Location: DeKalb, Illinois...out amidst the corn, soybeans, and Republicans

Re: EGR Vacuum Modulator

Post by Econoline »

Have you been using a full synthetic oil for a while, or did you just decide to switch to it this time? If you're just now switching to synthetic at 180K an oil analysis might be a good idea...but given your type of driving, I would think 10K between changes would be fine. That's pretty much the same kind of driving I do with my Cube, and I've been using full synthetic and changing it every 10K for >200K miles. (And as Ray has mentioned, if you believe the oil manufacturers rather than the oil change dealers, synthetic oil is probably good for even longer intervals than that.)
People who are wrong are just as sure they're right as people who are right. The only difference is, they're wrong.
God @The Tweet of God

User avatar
BoSoxGal
Posts: 18297
Joined: Tue Apr 06, 2010 10:36 pm
Location: The Heart of Red Sox Nation

Re: EGR Vacuum Modulator

Post by BoSoxGal »

High mileage oil since around 75k miles, synthetic high mileage for the past 30k I think? Before that for a while it was high mileage synthetic blend.

I mistakenly picked up 10/30 instead of 5/30 and was worried because of the deep cold we have right now, but she started up nicely and it’s getting warm again soon so all should be good.

I’ve been running with Seafoam or Lucas in my fuel the past couple months; what do you guys say about adding some in the oil reservoir as well?
For me, it is far better to grasp the Universe as it really is than to persist in delusion, however satisfying and reassuring.
~ Carl Sagan

Post Reply