EGR Vacuum Modulator

RayThom · Post by **RayThom** » Sat Sep 16, 2017 2:47 am

Burning Petard wrote:... Big gap for spark plugs now, and where the heck is the Distributor?...
snailgate

0.035... that would be a 'big gap' for a spark plug --but I know you meant time between changing.

Maybe about four years ago I bought replacement iridium plugs for my '10 KIA Forte -- just in case. Now, eight years and over 60,000 miles later (yes, I don't drive a lot anymore) I'm still waiting for the car to tell me it's time to replace them. Nearly the same gas mileage, and hardly a drop of oil burning, equal to when I bought the car. However, I may change them before the cold weather sets in just to circumvent any surprises that could arise.

BTW -- my KIA has treated me equal or better than any one of the many Hondas I have owned. I'll probably stick with the brand if the car expires before I do.

Jarlaxle · Post by **Jarlaxle** » Sat Sep 16, 2017 10:28 am

Burning Petard wrote:I think 'tune-up' once meant clean and gap the spark plugs and clean-set points and timing on the distributor. Big gap for spark plugs now and where the heck is the Distributor? I have no idea what a 'tune-up' would be now, unless it was related to click and clack's regular reference to a boat payment.

Oh yeah. For special customers, tune-ups included a careful lube and adjust of the exhaust bearing.

snailgate

Now, it basically means new plugs.

Jarlaxle · Post by **Jarlaxle** » Sat Sep 16, 2017 10:29 am

RayThom wrote:
Burning Petard wrote:... Big gap for spark plugs now, and where the heck is the Distributor?...
snailgate
0.035... that would be a 'big gap' for a spark plug --but I know you meant time between changing.

Maybe about four years ago I bought replacement iridium plugs for my '10 KIA Forte -- just in case. Now, eight years and over 60,000 miles later (yes, I don't drive a lot anymore) I'm still waiting for the car to tell me it's time to replace them. Nearly the same gas mileage, and hardly a drop of oil burning, equal to when I bought the car. However, I may change them before the cold weather sets in just to circumvent any surprises that could arise.

BTW -- my KIA has treated me equal or better than any one of the many Hondas I have owned. I'll probably stick with the brand if the car expires before I do.

.035" is actually a very small gap. .050" is nothing unusual, I run .060" in my Caddy.

The original plugs (Motorcraft Platinum) in my Vic went 115,000 miles. I expect the replacements to last at least 75K.

MGMcAnick · Post by **MGMcAnick** » Sat Sep 16, 2017 6:50 pm

RayThom wrote:I may change them before the cold weather sets in just to circumvent any surprises that could arise.

Remember to put a little anti-seize compound on each plug's threads before screwing them in. Otherwise they will be very hard to remove for your 200K tune up. You don't have to buy a whole tube of anti-seize. AutoZone sells little packets that are enough for one job, even if you have a V8. I think I bought my tube when I had my first Cessna 170B in 1979, and I've screwed a lot of plugs since then. It doesn't take a lot. A little dab'll do ya.

BoSoxGal · Post by **BoSoxGal** » Mon Oct 02, 2017 6:31 pm

New O2 sensor installed, running much better, CEL reset but goes on again within 15 drive miles. Popped out aftermarket vacuum modulator, installed Toyota genuine, CEL reset, goes on again within 15 drive miles. However, turns itself off again about 60 miles later and stays off for about 100 miles before coming back on. Reva is running better than she has in many months, good acceleration (for a puny 4 cylinder) and reasonably good power - but there is still lag.

Mechanic will diagnose at next paycheck but I’m thinking of things that she could definitely need. I can’t recall the last time a new fuel filter was installed, so I’m thinking that for sure.

Also wondering, have any of y’all ever used Seafoam and do you recommend it? I saw a few mentions on the RAV4 forums.

Jarlaxle · Post by **Jarlaxle** » Mon Oct 02, 2017 8:05 pm

Yes, and highly. Run fuel below half, pour in a can of Seafoam, and fill the tank.

BoSoxGal · Post by **BoSoxGal** » Mon Oct 02, 2017 9:50 pm

Have you ever added it to your oil?

BoSoxGal · Post by **BoSoxGal** » Tue Oct 03, 2017 9:49 pm

I’m also in the market for new tires, and I’ve Googled all over but can’t find the answer to this question: my owner’s manual recommends two sizes, both of which fit my wheel. What’s the functional difference between them?

215/70R16
235/60R16

RayThom · Post by **RayThom** » Wed Oct 04, 2017 4:04 am

215/70R16 = narrow(er) tread, slightly more height
235/60R16 = wider tread, sits slightly lower

On a 1999 RAV4 4DR -- assuming you like the idea of a "more rugged" SUV I suggest you go with 215/70... they'll do fine. That said, shop on line (TireRack? Enter the sizes into Google and you'll get many sites to visit) to see what the cheaper of the two sizes might be.

Now, if you have a mechanic who knows you're financial situation see if he/she would mount and balance your tires if you have them delivered to the shop. $10 -- $12 per tire would be a reasonable install price. Add up the total and see if it's cheaper than what the shop would charge if they supply the tires.

Don't go with high end makers. I have Sumitomo's on my car and they handle quite nicely. Be an educated consumer and you'll do well. Good luck.

BoSoxGal · Post by **BoSoxGal** » Wed Oct 04, 2017 3:36 pm

I have 215/70Rs on Reva now, and was wondering if the 235/60Rs would give me a softer, gentler - and maybe quieter - ride; I don’t go off road much anymore because there isn’t much off road here like there was in Montana and Arizona.

I really want a tire that is excellent in wet and snow conditions, as that’s what I deal with regularly here - especially wet, something that brakes well when wet and handles hydroplaning well. The Nokians were very highly rated by Consumer Reports and while they are @ $35 more per tire than equivalents to what I currently have (Cooper Discoverer A/T 3s), I’m okay with that added investment given that I’m commuting 60 miles/day for work and so much is riding on my tires. (Credit to Michelin for that ditty.) I need a good all weather, because I don’t want to deal with two sets, can’t really afford it and don’t really have room to store a second set. I’ve had all weather for many years and never had any trouble even driving in really poor road conditions.

My new mechanic is super reasonable so I’m sure he won’t overcharge for putting on new tires, but I will also ask him about tire shops because the place I got mine in Montana offered free rotations for the life of the tires and that’s a nice perk if I can get similar here, most places charge $20 for rotating tires which adds up quick.

Big RR · Post by **Big RR** » Wed Oct 04, 2017 4:16 pm

I don't know about softer or quieter, but I think wider tires (by virtue of being softer to give the wider track) will accelerate and brake more quickly. I think because they are softer they will also tend to wear out more quickly.

BoSoxGal · Post by **BoSoxGal** » Wed Oct 04, 2017 4:49 pm

I’ve done some more reading - found a bunch of great info at Pep Boys website - and I think I’ll stick to the 215s, as apparently the handling is much better than with the 235s and that matters a lot to me in crazy Masshole traffic. It seems if I’m willing to pay a bit more I can still get a tire that size with relatively low noise.

Two more questions: Anybody have experience with Hankook tires? And, is Pep Boys an ok place? They offer free rotations for life of tires, plus several brands are buy 3 get one free - you have to get them installed there and they do charge about $30 more than RT suggested was a good install price, but the free tire saves me $100 on top of that.

RayThom · Post by **RayThom** » Wed Oct 04, 2017 5:54 pm

BoSoxGal wrote:... Two more questions: Anybody have experience with Hankook tires? And, is Pep Boys an ok place? They offer free rotations for life of tires, plus several brands are buy 3 get one free - you have to get them installed there and they do charge about $30 more than RT suggested was a good install price, but the free tire saves me $100 on top of that.

Hankook is an excellent tire. I had them on my '88 Accord and they seemed to last forever -- and they are in the mid-range price area. "3 -- one free" at Pep Boys? That's a sales tactic and it's up to you to figure out if you're comfortable with it. They will probably offer you an insurance policy. It may sound good but you'll have to weight the cost on top of the tire purchase and installation. BTW -- PB is fine for "basic" car care but I never felt comfortable with them handling anything major. Overall... they're reasonable and accommodating.

Econoline · Post by **Econoline** » Wed Oct 04, 2017 5:56 pm

I've gone through 2 sets of Michelin Defenders on my Sprinter (van) and another 2 sets on my Nissan Cube. They're Consumer Reports' top-rated all-season tire and they come with a 90,000-mile tread-wear warranty (and from experience I can tell you that they DO last that long, or nearly that long.) (One of those 4 sets I replaced at just under 80,000 because I was starting to get nervous.)

BoSoxGal · Post by **BoSoxGal** » Wed Oct 04, 2017 6:33 pm

Those DO look great - but the nearly as high rated (CR 70, v. 72 for the Defenders) Cooper Discoverer SRXs can be bought for half the price. However, while the Michelin’s have a 70k mile tread warranty (for the SUV version) and the Coopers have a 75k warranty, CR says that actual tread life is 85k for the Michelins and 55k for the Coopers - perhaps that warrants the extra $300, because sure as shit it would be a monster headache getting the manufacturer to actually honor the warranty.

Anybody ever buy tires online? I’m considering that option, as it’s free delivery and I could opt for my trustworthy mechanic to install, thus avoiding upgrade pressures. I won’t save much on a 4 for 3 deal if Pep Boys tells me I need an alignment in order to warranty my tires - I don’t need an alignment, Reva tracks straight as an arrow and the wear on my current Coopers is very even, despite me being terrible about checking pressure - I basically never do so it only gets checked at oil changes. (I used to be REALLY good about auto maintenance before my mental space was consumed by child molesters and abusive parents; I’ll be much better with this new set of tires, especially if I spring for Michelins.)

Investing in the Michelins would mean really believing in Reva going over 250k - my cousin would say the law of attraction would work in my favor by taking that leap of faith.

eta: Final question about tires - do y’all believe that old tires are dangerous regardless of mileage? There is a lot of info out there stating that tires should be replaced regardless of tread wear, from as early as 6 years of age (from manufacture) to no more than 10. My current Coopers still pass the Lincoln test, but they are 5 years on my vehicle and I believe they were already 2 years old (manufacture date) when I bought them. Montana is super hot/dry in summer and super cold/dry in winter, so even though they have low miles on them, I’m nervous about running them much longer considering the high speeds I travel at on heavily congested roads here in Massachusetts - I’d hate to kill myself and/or someone else over a tread failure at high speed because I waited too long to replace.

BoSoxGal · Post by **BoSoxGal** » Wed Oct 04, 2017 7:37 pm

I lied, I have one more tire question:

One of the retailers I was researching recommends including the full-size spare in a 5 tire rotation so the spare is always evenly worn and serviceable. My spare is at least 8 years old (maybe 12?) and has either never been run or only run once for a couple hundred miles - I can’t recall if after using it once in 2008 it was replaced, or if it’s the same tire put on in Arizona in 2005 after Reva was rear-ended and had to have her back door replaced.

However old, it just sits on the back enduring all kinds of weather and sun exposure. It *looks* brand new - but is not. I should probably replace it, huh? In 12 years I’ve only needed the spare once, but it would suck to have it fail on me if I did need it.

Big RR · Post by **Big RR** » Wed Oct 04, 2017 8:32 pm

When I had a full size spare--many years ago--I replaced it when I replaced two of my times (generally the new went on the front, the best two on the rear, and the third best on the spare (which was usually pretty bald). I recall people rotating the spare as well, but I never did.

I do recall hearing that any tire older than 10 years should be replaced, but I cannot imagine a spare older than that is worse than a donut spare designed to go 50 miles or so; if you are not planning to drive a lot on the spare, it's probably OK not to replace it (but if it gets older you might want to consider subbing in one of the replaced tires).

I have gotten tires from tire rack and found they were easy to deal with and well priced--they were shipped right to the garage and I paid for mounting balancing. But be sure to check your prices, you may do better locally (granted not most of the time, but it is worth a check).

RayThom · Post by **RayThom** » Wed Oct 04, 2017 9:03 pm

Re. Full size spare: I always replace my "donut" spare with a full size. Look for the correct size 16" rim -- eBay or junkyard, a new one is way too much money -- and chose the best one of the tires you are going to replace and save that to be mounted on your 'new' rim. I sometimes have to build up the floor around the wheel well with styrofoam for the wheel to fit flush so the floor cover will lie flat. Buying a brand new tire isn't necessary for a spare unless you "5 tire rotate" but that's rarely done any more. (It's merely a ploy for the installer to get more money from you.)

Re. Old tires -- if not flat and/or standing in moisture causing dry rot -- are perfectly usable. Some tires will stay on a garage rack for 10 years and then finally get mounted with little safety concerns.

And again, a good mid-range priced brand can, and will, give you as much life as the most expensive tire. With federal laws as they are, tire companies don't want their products to get a bad track record -- so to speak. It's your money... not mine, but I feel your pain. I am on median SS as my only source of income so I really know how to stretch my dollar$.

MGMcAnick · Post by **MGMcAnick** » Tue Oct 10, 2017 12:00 am

BoSoxGal wrote:Those DO look great - but the nearly as high rated (CR 70, v. 72 for the Defenders) Cooper Discoverer SRXs can be bought for half the price. However, while the Michelin’s have a 70k mile tread warranty (for the SUV version) and the Coopers have a 75k warranty, CR says that actual tread life is 85k for the Michelins and 55k for the Coopers -

Anybody ever buy tires online?

eta: Final question about tires - do y’all believe that old tires are dangerous regardless of mileage? There is a lot of info out there stating that tires should be replaced regardless of tread wear, from as early as 6 years of age (from manufacture) to no more than 10. My current Coopers still pass the Lincoln test, but they are 5 years on my vehicle and I believe they were already 2 years old (manufacture date) when I bought them.

I put a set of Coopers on a Ford Escape that Mrs Mc inherited from her dad who bough tit new. The factory tires went to 62K. The Coopers were still on it when I put her in a five year newer Escape. They had almost exactly 100K on them, and still had safe tread. I wish I could tell you which Cooper model they were.

On line, no. I've used Sam's and Wal-Mart a lot. I figure, if a tire (or battery) goes bad, there's always a Wally World within five miles.

Even though your current Coopers were two years old when they were mounted, I think the clock starts at installation because it's the UV light that causes sidewall cracking and (sometimes) a premature popping noise. I've run lots of 10 year old tires.

The only blowout I can recall was on a motor home a week ago today. I have no idea how old the tire was. The shop that charged me $1034 to replace it, and its opposite inside dual, didn't say. I'm saving up for two more Michelins to match. The outers look good, but have weather cracks. Now that I'm home, and not at the mercy of an unknown truck-stop tire shop 170 miles away, I may be able to do better on the price. There is NO spare on a diesel pusher Freightliner chassis Tiffin motor home. Except for house on top, it's a TRUCK.

The small number of tire failures (spelled FLATS) I've had on the road precludes my feeling the need for a full sized spare. I think your RAV-4 has a full sized spare mounted on the back anyway.

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