EGR Vacuum Modulator

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RayThom
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EGR Vacuum Modulator

Post by RayThom »

26,000 miles? If you get this Forester incredibly cheap I think you could put a load of mileage on it before there are gasket problems. Keep in mind, it's not a guaranteed, absolute problem with each and every non-turbo engine. Everything I read says it blows after 80K to maybe 120K. Just put repair money in a side account and if it goes you'll have the cash to handle it.
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Jarlaxle
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Re: EGR Vacuum Modulator

Post by Jarlaxle »

BoSoxGal wrote:Yes, it’s close to going like my muffler and midpipe did recently. There isn’t any rust on the underside of the vehicle except for the exhaust components - but considering this is the first time replacing any of the parts (except the muffler, I’ve replaced that at least once before) I think they’ve lasted pretty well, especially as I was not at all diligent about keeping the underside clean following crappy weather.
Well...as I posted, a cat is <$200.

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BoSoxGal
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Re: EGR Vacuum Modulator

Post by BoSoxGal »

So what do you guys think would be a fair price for them to ask on the Forester, knowing it has $2k in necessary differential repair now, and possibly the head gasket issue? It KBB’s at $5700-7900 private party sale value, as good condition - which it apparently is despite requiring mechanical repairs.

I’m a terrible haggler so would love some advice on that aspect. I do agree that depending on price (and obviously a checkover for any other issues by my mechanic), it could be a very good deal for me. I only put around 10k/yr. on a vehicle, so even if I only kept it until 100k when big repairs start coming due, it would be good for the next 5-7 years.
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Jarlaxle
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Re: EGR Vacuum Modulator

Post by Jarlaxle »

You'd probably do better keeping the RAV and saving the money.

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RayThom
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EGR Vacuum Modulator

Post by RayThom »

You don't NEED the car. Let them know your concerns about future break-downs and/or repairs and offer $4K. Hey... you never know. However, and later, if and when the Sube breaks down, if you don't have ready cash to pay for repairs then it's not going to be the best move for you. I feel the Sube may be a good gamble, however, if you can get it "rock bottom."

Like you, I kept my '88 Accord (bought in '87) going until Aug. '09. A major electrical short due to internal wire corrosion did it in. When I realized what it would cost to replace the effected wiring I knew it was time to sell. I was always able to keep replacing parts but the electricals blindsided me. Your RAV might do the same to you and there's no cheap fix.

Good luck.
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Big RR
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Re: EGR Vacuum Modulator

Post by Big RR »

Personally, I'd low ball it an offer them $2500 or $2750 and give yourself a little wiggle room if they try to negotiate upward--the worst they could say is "no" and you can come higher if you want. Face it, they won't have much of a use for it without the differential repair, and although they may be able to sell it for more, it will take some time and effort to do so (effort most people don't like to make), so they may be willing to take a low offer to just get it off their hands. I'd also suggest to have it checked by your mechanic to see if anything else needs to be done before you make any offer to avoid surprises

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BoSoxGal
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Re: EGR Vacuum Modulator

Post by BoSoxGal »

Ok Jarl, I saved a little over $200 by ordering the parts from RA, and this time the discount code saved me almost the whole shipping cost. I went with the Denso O2 sensor; I’ll wait a few weeks to see if it functions properly before I offer up steak tips. :mrgreen:
For me, it is far better to grasp the Universe as it really is than to persist in delusion, however satisfying and reassuring.
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BoSoxGal
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Re: EGR Vacuum Modulator

Post by BoSoxGal »

Oh, I decided not to go any further with the Subaru - I could sense that my client’s daughter wasn’t entirely comfortable selling it to me even if we agreed to a price that took pending repairs into account. I overheard her talking to her mother (who I hadn’t yet spoken to about it) expressing a concern that if I bought it, I might bother her about anything that went wrong with it later. I was very upset about that, but decided not to say anything because she’s got advanced cancer and I’m not going to bring any extra stress into her life - I just told her I’d changed my mind. She was born with a silver spoon in her mouth and has lived a very financially comfortable life, so I think she doesn’t understand that a low mileage car, even with some significant repairs needed, could be a real boon to someone like me. They are going to donate the car and will get a tax deduction for whatever amount the receiving organization can get selling it.

I was really keen on the lower profile for kayak carrying purposes, plus it already had crossbars - oh, and heated seats! That was definitely enticing! But I own Reva outright, and I have a nice heated vibrating cushion in my driver’s seat, and I do like riding up higher than a wagon especially in traffic, so that means a little more effort getting my yak on top. I can probably get Reva painted and her dents smoothed out and her torn rear seat cushion repaired all for way less than I would’ve spent on buying and fixing Sally Subaru - and I suppose it is possible that a car which has been sitting unused for a long period of time could need a lot of fixing, even if it has low miles - things dry up and deteriorate without regular lubrication.

Plus the whole ‘I heart Reva’ and our years of memories - so shhhhhh! Don’t tell her I was thinking of kicking her to the curb! :mrgreen:
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MGMcAnick
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Re: EGR Vacuum Modulator

Post by MGMcAnick »

BSG, check for a PM from me.
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Re: EGR Vacuum Modulator

Post by MGMcAnick »

BoSoxGal wrote:So I finally got to talk to my client’s daughter and I gather the Subaru needs a differential repair that they were told would run $2k.
You need to know what that differential repair is. Does it need a new front or rear differential, or the center "transfer case" which is more like a differential on a Subaru than it is on most cars? Who told them it needed a $2000 repair? The dealer's cost will be high. There are prices, and there are prices.

Check http://www.car-part.com for a used low mileage used differential near you.
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Long Run
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Re: EGR Vacuum Modulator

Post by Long Run »

BoSoxGal wrote:Oh, I decided not to go any further with the Subaru * * *
and I suppose it is possible that a car which has been sitting unused for a long period of time could need a lot of fixing, even if it has low miles - things dry up and deteriorate without regular lubrication.
I'm late to the party, but I agree that at 13+ years, you could have a lot of rubber parts start to wear out, plus you know it has a fairly spendy repair at only 26,000 miles. One of the odd things I've noticed about Subarus in this area is that Outback drivers go fast and Forester drivers go way slow, go figure. :?
I overheard her talking to her mother (who I hadn’t yet spoken to about it) expressing a concern that if I bought it, I might bother her about anything that went wrong with it later.
I can understand her concern, though it is misplaced in your situation. Years ago, a friend sold me a low-miles older Volvo at a very good price, but it ended up needing a lot of rubber parts replaced (see above), which cost as much as the purchase price. A few years later, I had to divide assets with the person I was no longer going to be living with, and said person got the Volvo. Which, of course, needed some more rubber parts. She gave my friend an earful about how much it cost. My friend and I still have a good laugh about that when we meet up; so you see, that sort of thing happens. ;)

Jarlaxle
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Re: EGR Vacuum Modulator

Post by Jarlaxle »

BoSoxGal wrote:Ok Jarl, I saved a little over $200 by ordering the parts from RA, and this time the discount code saved me almost the whole shipping cost. I went with the Denso O2 sensor; I’ll wait a few weeks to see if it functions properly before I offer up steak tips. :mrgreen:
Anytime you need a RA discount code, lemme know-I get them in email regularly.

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oldr_n_wsr
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Re: EGR Vacuum Modulator

Post by oldr_n_wsr »

A whole thread to cars. Really cool. :ok
I bought a new forester in 2014 (2015 model) and change the oil every 6k. It usually needs a quart at the 4k mark. Nice thing about the subaru is it has an oil "low" light (yellow) which actually comes on when the dipstick shows 1 qt low.
Thing takes 0w-20 synthetic. What is that "vegitable oil"??? Thin stuff even when I changed it at 15°F.
Put 80k on it already. New set of tires this past december. Probably could have gone to 90k on the tires if I had rotated them.
Oil/filter changes every 6k, air filter every 18k (three oilchanges), interior cabin filter once at 75k front brakes/rotors at 60k rear brakes rotors at 79k.
Nothing bad to say about it other than I wish the front passenger seat folded all the way forward like my pt cruisers front seat did. Makes it easier to put some 8 foot boards in the car.

my daughters 2005 malibu has 180k on it. she bought it with 20k back in 2007 or 2008. Again, 6k oil/filter and usual maintenace for a 150K plus car. (shocks struts, o2 sensor, rear evap thingy, serpentine belt, which required pulling the plastic fender liner out then it was easy. I'm sure I am forgetting stuff). Her check engine light is on. I checked the engine, it's still there. :lol:
Need to have it read. Last time it was the rear evap thing (PITA that was. had to partially drop the gas tank to get to it and get it out). Probably the front one this time. Tried the gas cap already. Maybe O2 sensor.

Not much I don't do on my own.
One thing i didn't do was the pt cruisers water pump. Had to drop the engine 6 inches to get that out, along with all the disconnects that went along with dropping it 6inches. About $800 IIRC.

I've bought parts from rock auto. Also from A1 Auto (or is it 1A Auto??)

Used to do points, plugs, rotor, condensor, dist cap every 10k on my old cars (64 dart, 72 dart, 67 belvedere wagon, 72 nova, 68 VW bus camper model). I don't miss that. unleaded gas has added many miles to spark plug life and ECM's did away with points, condensor, rotor, cap.

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BoSoxGal
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Re: EGR Vacuum Modulator

Post by BoSoxGal »

Now that I’m recommitted to Reva for the duration, I’d like to put in some effort into sprucing her up after years of benign neglect.

To that end, while I’ve done a bunch of research online and watched videos with different techniques, I’d like to hear from my pals here about their experience with best techniques for reconditioning plastic and vinyl trim on the interior and exterior of vehicles.

Also any suggestions for reconditioning lightly rusty steel wheels - I’m thinking about painting them purple, too!
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RayThom
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EGR Vacuum Modulator

Post by RayThom »

BoSoxGal wrote:... I’d like to hear from my pals here about their experience with best techniques for reconditioning plastic and vinyl trim on the interior and exterior of vehicles... Also any suggestions for reconditioning lightly rusty steel wheels - I’m thinking about painting them purple, too!
For much of what you mention for plastic and vinyl I think you'd do well using "STP® Son of a Gun!® Protectant"

As for the wheels -- you'll need a wire brush, or a wire wheel brush you can attach on an electric drill. Once you paint the wheels you might want to put on some cheap wheel "beauty" rings.

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Re: EGR Vacuum Modulator

Post by BoSoxGal »

I've read that all of the topically applied products wear off in a matter of weeks or months, so was looking more into longer-term reconditioning methods.

I've read and seen videos about using a heat gun to draw up the oil in the plastic and restore the original color and sheen. I've also seen info about painting the plastic, or using a product like Trim Cote to re-color the plastic. Has anyone tried any of those things, not just application of Armor-All or other protectant? (I'd expect to use one of those products regularly after the reconditioning, to maintain the improved look.)

It's funny, my very first car was a VW Rabbit GTI that was high miles and in pretty bad shape, but I used to take that car to the carwash at least monthly to clean, vacuum, wash - and home to Armor-All all the trim and interior plastic/vinyl. I was similarly obsessive about my next couple of vehicles until I got my first dog, which began the long slow slide into apathy, much enhanced by workaholism as law school and practice took their toll on my life's routines. My vehicles - and my body - suffered from my obsessive focus on work, work, work.

So I'm pretty beat up and neglected, as is Reva. Time to refocus on the fundamentals!
For me, it is far better to grasp the Universe as it really is than to persist in delusion, however satisfying and reassuring.
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Crackpot
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Re: EGR Vacuum Modulator

Post by Crackpot »

Pinging is probably your best bet it you’d have to remove your interior to do that. And keep armor-all well away from any flat plastic components
Okay... There's all kinds of things wrong with what you just said.

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RayThom
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EGR Vacuum Modulator

Post by RayThom »

Keep in mind the law of diminishing returns.

As soon as you do one thing, something else will spring up. A vacuum cleaner and soap and water is probably you best bet at this point.

Eventually you'll be paying almost as much on maintaining the vehicle than a monthly car payment. A major electrical problem can easily be your undoing. Then you're left with a very clean, and very large, outdoor flower planter.
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BoSoxGal
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Re: EGR Vacuum Modulator

Post by BoSoxGal »

I do, but I’ve calculated all the costs, including additional registration and insurance costs of a newer vehicle, plus a monthly payment and interest, plus maintenance and any repairs that crop up on that car - I’ve heard countless stories of nightmare repairs required on low mileage vehicles, anything can happen.

When it comes to Reva I know that while I might have neglected her washing/waxing/conditioning while also by necessity parking her under the blazing Western sun for a decade, her engine has been maintained with religious regularity and all normal repairs from regular wear and tear have been conducted timely.

Either I’m going to spend $200 to have a great detail done on her by a local guy, or I’m going to devote a day off to doing it myself, at about the same cost in terms of lost leisure time and supplies. The Trim Kote and other products are relatively inexpensive, as is the rustoleum primer and paint that I’ll use on her wheels. I’ve had an estimate of $500 to repair her dents including replacing front fender and the required repainting, and I’m guessing he’d charge me at most another couple hundred to do the hood and roof at the same time. I’m not going to sink a bunch into a total repainting - just would like to spruce her up a bit for the next few years. If I spend @ $700 on that, plus the $600 on the parts and labor necessary to finish restoring her exhaust system, that works out to just over $100/mo. for this year - and I don’t anticipate any further repairs for a while going forward, as everything is in good shape. I’ve had plenty of years where I’ve put nothing into her but gas and oil, so I think with all this recent stuff (quite normal for an 18-year-old vehicle), she’ll be good to go for the foreseeable future.

I realize I could’ve put the $3k I’ve spent on her in the past two years toward another vehicle, but I don’t want a car payment at this time and quite frankly, I’m looking toward a future without a car altogether, if things go as I hope toward the end of my current 5 year plan. I’m putting a little away in savings every payday, both to have an emergency repair fund and to save for a future vehicle if my plans change - but I’m pretty sure Reva and I will be together for another half decade, absent me playing and winning the lottery.
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Jarlaxle
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Re: EGR Vacuum Modulator

Post by Jarlaxle »

Steel wheels are easiest: remove from vehicle, dismount tires, media-blast to remove old paint and rust, and paint them. Failing that, mask off the tires with cardboard and tape, remove paint and rust with a wire wheel on a drill (make sure you get all of it) and paint them. Though, if you find a set, some take-offs might be easier and cheaper.

For interior parts, they can be painted-I had a painted panel in my Jeep and it held up well. You need special paint to do it right...a car upholstery shop should have it in rattle-cans.

Ever figure out your power steering drip?

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