EGR Vacuum Modulator

Jarlaxle · Post by **Jarlaxle** » Wed Mar 27, 2019 10:44 am

First: check the oil!

BoSoxGal · Post by **BoSoxGal** » Wed Mar 27, 2019 11:26 am

I check the oil pretty regularly, and top it off only infrequently - I just checked it last week.

It’s overdue for an oil change only because the last year I haven’t driven much at all - so more in terms of months than miles. My mechanic said it was ok to go 5000-7500 between oil changes, but that I needed to keep an eye on the oil and top it off if it went low because being older it would be more prone to burn some between changes. He’s a real honest guy, way too busy to need to make money off me nefariously.

Jarlaxle · Post by **Jarlaxle** » Wed Mar 27, 2019 11:10 pm

He's right...5K oil changes are fine.

But think logically: if the oil isn't low...it can't be leaking a bunch of oil.

BoSoxGal · Post by **BoSoxGal** » Thu Mar 28, 2019 12:52 am

Yeah, of course. Doh!

It’s power steering fluid. I noticed it was low a while back and put some in, but didn’t have a lot left so it wasn’t filled up. Checked this morning and it was really low. It’s been squealing here and there when doing a really tight turn, but this AM is was really rough trying to turn just moderately to back out of my driveway. I popped over to AutoZone and picked up some Lucas power steering leak fix - guaranteed to work or my money back! I asked the gal at checkout to snip the tip for me and filled the PS reservoir to the max line right in the parking lot. No more squealing, and it’s turning nice now. Time will tell if the stuff plugs the leak or not.

I paid a pretty penny for a new rack & pinion in 2015; I don’t think the car has even gone 20k miles since then. Serves me right for being stupid enough to get that work done in Mayberry-on-meth, Montana.

RayThom · Post by **RayThom** » Thu Mar 28, 2019 12:57 am

BoSoxGal wrote:... I paid a pretty penny for a new rack & pinion in 2015; I don’t think the car has even gone 20k miles since then. Serves me right for being stupid enough to get that work done in Mayberry-on-meth, Montana.

If you've led a good life maybe it's just the R&P hose.

BoSoxGal · Post by **BoSoxGal** » Thu Mar 28, 2019 1:04 am

RayThom wrote:
BoSoxGal wrote:... I paid a pretty penny for a new rack & pinion in 2015; I don’t think the car has even gone 20k miles since then. Serves me right for being stupid enough to get that work done in Mayberry-on-meth, Montana.
If you've led a good life maybe it's just the R&P hose.

If there is a fundamental theme to my life, RT, it is being painfully reminded over and over and over again that there are no certain rewards for living a good life.

But hopefully it’s just the R&P hose, whatever that is. What’s the worst that can happen with a worn R&P anyway? It leaked for 5 years before I got it fixed the first time.

Jarlaxle · Post by **Jarlaxle** » Thu Mar 28, 2019 12:03 pm

Might be worth try8ng some UV dye to find the leak.

Burning Petard · Post by **Burning Petard** » Thu Mar 28, 2019 1:26 pm

Or add some magic potion stop leak to the power steering reservoir. Lucas worked for me in a Ford Escort with 160K.

Snailgate.

BoSoxGal · Post by **BoSoxGal** » Thu Mar 28, 2019 2:30 pm

I put a whole bunch of Lucas in yesterday, so hoping it does the trick. I’ll know if the driveway spot dries up.

Jarlaxle · Post by **Jarlaxle** » Fri Mar 29, 2019 1:27 pm

Maybe toss a sheet of cardboard underneath, or soak up the spot with cat litter?

BoSoxGal · Post by **BoSoxGal** » Fri Oct 04, 2019 7:22 pm

So, Reva RAV now needs a new rack & pinion. I’m frustrated because she got one in early 2015 and started leaking and squeaking in January of this year, but she IS 20 years old and the roads in Massachusetts are beyond brutal - despite my best efforts to avoid the worst of the potholes and manholes and such, far too often I’m gritting my teeth.

My problem and why I’m seeking guidance here is the repair estimate my mechanic gave me - $2450. The labor was totally reasonable at $310, but the parts are crazy expensive. He’s been supposed to research the estimate for months and finally sent it - kept saying I needed to use Toyota factory for some of them or it wouldn’t last. So he’s using OEM for the lines (@$780) and a Toyota factory rack unit ($1228).

Here’s the thing - repairpal estimates the job at $1400-$1600 total, and referred me to several shops in the area that will honor that estimate. I’ve got an appointment pending with one next week. I really trust my mechanic, he’s been honest and fair with me for a couple of years now so no reason not to. But, I’ve been researching and reading and I keep hearing it’s perfectly acceptable to use a rebuilt rack for this repair as a means to save $ because it’s a part that lends well to refurbishment. So I’m just wondering how important is the factory part here? I’m going to need new tires soon and would love to save $1k on this job if I can.

The leak isn’t massive but it’s not as small as it was last time when I left it mostly alone for 4-5 years before fixing it, with just regular top offs of fluid. I’m topping off much more now (2x month) and often get a terrible squealing when I start the car and the first couple of minutes of operation. Haven’t noticed any alignment issues and it seems to be steering fine once the pump warms up, but there is some slackness and I know it’s just dangerous not to fix it. I’ve got 192k on Reva and should be able to get at least another 58k from the engine - she’s dented and ugly but not rusty, and I’m just not in a position to replace her at the moment anyway.

Thoughts about rack & pinion replacement and parts?

RayThom · Post by **RayThom** » Fri Oct 04, 2019 7:38 pm

Rack and pinion:
1999 Toyota RAV4 Base 4 Cyl 2.0L
https://www.carparts.com/results/?N=0&N ... niversal=0

I think you'll find the price is right. Now all you need to do is ask around and find a competent tech who donates his labor to those who are struggling financially.

Keep in mind, that within weeks or months after completing this installation another major part is going to go south. You might want to start looking for another vehicle sooner than later.

BoSoxGal · Post by **BoSoxGal** » Fri Oct 04, 2019 8:35 pm

RT, I don’t need comments telling me to get another car when I’ve just said I’m not interested in getting another car. I’ve addressed this issue numerous times in this thread so I’m not going to beat a dead horse - but I am still spending far less per year replacing parts that wear out on my very reliable 20 year old RAV than I would to buy, register, insure etc. a newer vehicle that could easily turn out to be a lemon. This model RAV4 has very few known engineering problems and owners are routinely getting 300k out of the original engines - some have gotten close to 1 million miles. Reva isn’t rusted and has only ever needed replaced parts that are supposed to wear out over time and never before they should have - got 16 years out of the first rack & pinion, for instance.

BoSoxGal · Post by **BoSoxGal** » Fri Oct 04, 2019 8:41 pm

RayThom wrote:Rack and pinion:
1999 Toyota RAV4 Base 4 Cyl 2.0L
https://www.carparts.com/search?q=rack_ ... ter]=2%2E0

I think you'll find the price is right. Now all you need to do is ask around and find a competent tech who donates his labor to those who are struggling financially.

Keep in mind, that within weeks or months after completing this installation another major part is going to go south. You might want to start looking for another vehicle sooner than later.

The link you posted is incomplete so useless to me. And to clarify, I’m not asking for free labor - I’m perfectly willing to pay a fair labor rate for this job and that wasn’t the issue. In fact, other than to run a google search for Toyota parts cost, you apparently ignored entirely the substantive issues I was asking for opinions on.

Thanks for playing just the same.

RayThom · Post by **RayThom** » Fri Oct 04, 2019 10:31 pm

BoSoxGal wrote:RT, I don’t need comments telling me to get another car when I’ve just said I’m not interested in getting another car. I’ve addressed this issue numerous times in this thread so I’m not going to beat a dead horse - but I am still spending far less per year replacing parts that wear out on my very reliable 20 year old RAV than I would to buy, register, insure etc. a newer vehicle that could easily turn out to be a lemon. This model RAV4 has very few known engineering problems and owners are routinely getting 300k out of the original engines - some have gotten close to 1 million miles. Reva isn’t rusted and has only ever needed replaced parts that are supposed to wear out over time and never before they should have - got 16 years out of the first rack & pinion, for instance.

If you say so. Good luck.

BoSoxGal · Post by **BoSoxGal** » Fri Oct 04, 2019 10:38 pm

Thanks for the snark.

Today is October 4; as of today, I’ve put only $300 into the vehicle above and beyond fuel, oil changes and insurance this calendar year. I use an app and track everything from my average fuel efficiency to every penny in maintenance (some of which is required for any car, so doesn’t really count in the cost/benefit analysis) and repairs.

This is a very basic math thing. Maybe it’s too hard for you to wrap your head around?

https://www.google.com/amp/s/lifehacker ... 335393/amp

If anyone else has thoughts/opinions about OEM or refurbished steering racks, I’d love to hear them. Thanks!

Jarlaxle · Post by **Jarlaxle** » Fri Oct 04, 2019 11:06 pm

Your mechanic is, quite simply, ripping you off. A NEW (not rebuilt) rack & pinion is less than $300. A quality (Cardone) rebuild is $170. The hoses (pressure and return, Gates) are fifty bucks each. $310 labor sounds reasonable. I found a complete Toyota r&p for $557, though I'd use a re-man in a second.

I will note that a seal kit to re-seal the one you have is less than fifty bucks. However...are you sure it's the rack and not the pump...or even the belt? (The pump is a fairly-pricey $122, though much less labor. Belt-Continental-is <$5!) Have you actually seen where the leak is coming from? If you need Rock Auto discount codes, let me know.

Ray, kindly fuck off.

BoSoxGal · Post by **BoSoxGal** » Sat Oct 05, 2019 12:00 am

At this link is the part he included in the estimate - I’ve found it here (a place I’ve bought discounted Toyota parts before, excellent dealership) for 34% less, so big savings.
[img]https://parts.autonationtoyotasouthaust ... 4425042080[/url]

However I also noted that part says it fits my car but it’s for a 2 door; I have a 4 door and this part, which says 4 door, also says it fits my car and is almost half the price. https://parts.autonationtoyotasouthaust ... 4425042100

So I’m a bit confused now; I can see the wisdom of buying factory original parts since the first one lasted 16 years whereas the replacement which was probably OEM (I didn’t specify or ask) only lasted 4 years. $800 is much better than $1200, but $450 is even better.

My mechanic was convinced it’s the rack, but I’m taking it to another place on Monday for another diagnosis/estimate. I texted a picture of the two above parts in my basket to my mechanic and he said nothing in reply - he only responded to my query as to whether he had part numbers for the lines that he listed as OEM by saying ‘no I don’t’. It’s after his usual hours so I might hear more from him tomorrow when he’s back in the shop.

I’m not sure if it could be the pump. Mechanic said the rack was bad. However, the only symptoms I have are a moderate leak and very loud squealing and hard steering at startup that goes away within a couple of minutes. The alignment is still perfect which makes me wonder if it is the rack? There is just a wee bit of wiggle in the steering but I can’t really be sure it’s more than it should be.

I can’t buy parts from Rock Auto again, they screwed me on a wrong exhaust part that they wouldn’t take back even for credit because I didn’t get it back to them within the return window because I was distracted by my uncle’s ALS diagnosis.

Jarlaxle · Post by **Jarlaxle** » Sat Oct 05, 2019 1:46 am

Step one: find the leak. I'm a little skeptical about needing a $1200 steering rack in 5 years. What did the original failed rack do? I have found a bad rack often results in the steering "hanging up"-losing power assist as you turn the wheel. (Fluid leaks past bad seals, causing a loss of the power assist.)

BoSoxGal · Post by **BoSoxGal** » Sat Oct 05, 2019 2:22 am

Yeah that’s what happens - it gets better over time but when the car is cold it’s wicked hard to steer. I trust my mechanic enough that I’m sure it’s the rack. I just need to talk to him about the parts and where to get them - I can clearly get them cheaper than his estimate even if I go with Toyota parts.

Actually strike that; it seems to me that my pump must be going bad because of the symptoms - the squealing at startup that gets better and the stiff steering. It might be that I need the pump and the rack both. Oh well I’ll see what the other mechanic place tells me Monday. They’ve got tons of 5 star ratings and customer praise online and have been in business 30 years so probably a reliable place.

Thanks Jarl.

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